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Are you planning to hike from Theth to Valbona Peak?

I know the most popular option is to hike between the two towns, from Valbona to Theth or Theth to Valbona, on an eight-hour trek.

For me, this came with a problem: what to do with our bags?

Some people leave them at a hostel in Shkoder before they go to the mountains. Others hire a horse and a guide to carry their bags through the pass, and still others choose to carry their heavy bags on their back with them the entire way.

However, we opted for the easiest option.

Instead of walking between the two towns, we decided to just hike from Theth to Valbona Peak and back again.


mountains around Valbona Peak

The mountains around Valbona Peak may look like a watercolor painting, but I promise this is what you’ll really see if you make this trek!


That way, we got all the same views and didn’t have to change guesthouses or deal with any bag shenanigans at all. I’m actually quite surprised more people don’t opt for this but it isn’t widely talked about.

Theth as a town is more beautiful than Valbona (or so the Dutch travelers at our guesthouse told me) and I personally strongly prefer a jeep or bus ride between Shkoder and Theth over the ferry that’s required to travel from Shkoder to Valbona.

(I tend to get motion sickness on boats.)

Think this option may be right for you? If so, this guide will cover:

  • Important info and stats about the Valbona Peak hike
  • Our itinerary and timeline
  • What to pack for the hike from Theth to Valbona Peak
  • How to hike from Theth to Valbona Peak
  • How to hike from Valbona Peak back to Theth
  • And much more!

There are tons of pros to hiking from Theth to Valbona Peak and back again and honestly I can’t think of a single downside. If you’re thinking about tackling this route on your Northern Albanian adventure, here’s everything you need to know!


mountain view on the hike from Theth to Valbona Peak

Slowly but surely inching closer to Valbona Peak


Valbona Peak Hike Info and Stats

The hike from Theth to Valbona Peak isn’t easy at all.

It’s a very steep uphill on the way to the peak and then a steep return as well. You don’t have to be in amazing shape but some fitness is required.

I found this trek much more difficult (but also more beautiful) than the hike to the Blue Eye of Theth.

How far is the climb from Theth to Valbona Peak and back?

11.7 miles

How long does it take to hike from Theth to Valbona Peak and back?

7 hours and 15 minutes

How difficult is the hike from Theth to Valbona Peak and back?

Moderate to difficult (with me personally leaning toward difficult)


Alpine Meadow in Theth National Park

View from the Alpine Meadow on our hike from Theth to Valbona Peak


Itinerary to Hike From Theth to Valbona Peak

This was our itinerary on the hike, and some milestones you can look out for so you’re not trekking away with no idea how close you are!

I’m an average hiker, so if you’re super fast or super slow, you can adjust your expectations accordingly. This was the itinerary for our hike to Valbona Peak and back to Theth again.

Another quick thing to note is that Theth is very spread out along the river. We stayed at Guesthouse Pashko which was a fairly far walk from the trailhead.

So, depending on where you’re located it could cut a mile or more off your hike.

  • 7:45 am – Leave our guesthouse.
  • 8:15 am – Arrive at the trailhead. The sign is on the main road through Theth and says “Valbona Col 6.5 km.”
  • 9:45 am – Arrive the alpine meadow. (This has amazing views. If you can’t make it all the way to the peak I strongly recommend at least hiking to this meadow.)
  • 10:30 am – Arrive at the mountain cafe and take a break for coffee and a pastry.
  • 11:30 am – Reach Valbona Peak!
  • 12 pm – Leave the peak to descend back to Theth.
  • 12:45 pm – Return to the cafe for another pastry.
  • 1:20 pm – Reach the alpine meadow.
  • 2:30 pm – Finish the hike at the trailhead.
  • 3 pm – Return to our guesthouse.


view of Theth Valley on the climb to Valbona Peak

View of Theth Valley on your climb to the heavens


What to Pack for the Hike from Theth to Valbona Peak

This hike definitely isn’t easy so it’s good to come prepared. I recommend bringing a small day pack on the trek to Valbona Peak with:

  • Sturdy hiking boots
  • A large water bottle
  • Snacks and a packed lunch
  • Sunscreen and sunglasses
  • Jacket or light layers in case a storm rolls in and the temperature drops

This is the hiking gear I can’t live without:


How to Hike from Theth to Valbona

When you’re walking to the trailhead, just stick to the main road through Theth and that’s the easiest way to find it.

Walk along the river, past the tourism board, past the bridge (but don’t cross it), and keep going. The trail starts on the “Theth side” of the river. The sign is large and obvious and says “Valbona Col 6.5 km.”

From here, it will start with a gradual uphill on the road until you reach the first of two cafes.

Stop and fill your water bottle at the fresh water spring (it’s clean and safe, I promise) before you continue.

From here, the walk gets a lot steeper and will begin to wind through a shaded forest.


View of Valbona Valley from Valbona Peak

The Theth to Valbona Peak hike is tough but views like this make it oh-so-worth-it. This photo was taken from the top.


Eventually, you’ll come out at the first marker, the alpine meadow.

This place.


This place is so beyond beautiful.

The flowers were blooming, the sun was shining, and we were surrounded by peaks of the Albanian Alps on all sides.

Seriously, this is one of the most picturesque places I have ever been. If you’re not sure that you can make the trek all the way from Theth to Valbona Peak, hiking 1.5 hours up the trail to this alpine meadow is still very worth the effort.

Next, we kept sweating and struggling up the mountainside (At least, I was. Luckily Dan never leaves me behind) until we reached the next marker at the second cafe.

This place has no roads leading to it and nothing fancy except an awesome view.

We stopped for a pastry, two canned Nescafe coffees, and refilled our bottles at the spring again.

Then, we sat and rested our feet for a bit before we made the final push to Valbona Peak and the pass that separates the two towns from each other.


cafe on the hike from Theth to Valbona Peak

View from the cafe that conveniently sits on the hiking trail from Theth to Valbona Peak


The walk between the cafe and the peak has the best views on the trail, and we reached the peak about 45 minutes after leaving it.


The pass was so amazing, and we had expansive views over the valley of Theth that we left behind us and on the other side over the Valbona valley too. Pictures don’t do it justice at all.

The best part of sitting on the peak was the stray dogs who made the hike from Theth as well and relaxed in the shade alongside us.


stray dogs on the hike to valbona Peak

Stray pups from Theth enjoying the views alongside us


We only stayed on the peak for 30 minutes but I could spend forever up there enjoying the view.

Pack a picnic to eat while you take in the expansive vistas in every direction. From the pass there’s a final short and rocky push to the peak itself, some people opted to tackle it while others decided they were close enough.

Either way, the view is seriously insane.


View of Valbona Valley from Valbona Peak

View of Valbona valley from Valbona Peak – whether you hike from Theth to Valbona or Valbona to Theth, the view from the top will be the same!


Returning to Theth from Valbona Peak

After 30 minutes on the pass and too many photos, it was time to return the way we came.

I honestly don’t think we missed out at all by going from Theth to Valbona Peak and back again (instead of continuing to the town of Valbona) because we saw the entire valley from the best vantage point at the peak.

The return was 45-minutes faster than the climb up (even with another stop at the cafe) and I was so happy to reach our guesthouse at the end of the day.

Now it was time to relax, enjoy the sunset, catch the World Cup game with our host family and eat way too much for dinner!

My tip: After your hike from Theth to Valbona Peak, take a minute to go stargazing after the sun goes down. The lack of light pollution in Theth is really rare, and the stars were unforgettable.


sunset in Theth

Enjoying the sunset from Guesthouse Pashko after our hike from Theth to Valbona Peak.


Use This Guide to Hike from Theth To Valbona Peak + Back Again

I’m so happy we made this choice.

I was a little worried about missing out but I really don’t think we did.

Choosing to hike from Theth to Valbona Peak and back instead of through the pass and to another town totally simplified our trip. We didn’t have to leave anything in a hostel, lug heavy bags though the pass, or hire a horse.

This hike is beyond beautiful, and I’m so glad we did it the way we did. After visiting, I can confidently say that Theth is now one of my favorite places in the world. It’s so peaceful, so relaxed, and has so many great hikes.

If you visit, try the trek from Theth to Valbona Peak and let me know what you think in the comments below.


Ready to go?

Use Skyscanner to find the cheapest flights to Tirana and explore accommodation like unique stays on Airbnb or the top-rated hotels on to plan the perfect vacation in Theth National Park!


This article is part of the Alluring Albania series. Read the rest below:

The Complete Guide to Theth and Albania’s Accursed Mountains

How to Hike to the Blue Eye of Theth

Shkoder, Albania Travel Guide

Is Tirana Worth Visiting? Thoughts on 24 Hours in the City

11-Day Albania and Macedonia Itinerary You Can Do Without a Car

Then, explore the complete Albania series for more tips on what to see, do, eat, drink, and discover in the country.


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  1. I’m just having an ice cold drink at the mountain cafe, thanks to your report. Great info, thanks for sharing!

    • You’re welcome! Glad you enjoyed the trek 🙂

  2. We followed your suggestion and did the ‘there and back again’ rather than through hike. Met many other hikers who did the through hike into theth. We were curious what they had to say about the hike. Pleased to hear every one of the 8 people we asked said the theth side was the nicest and prettiest.

    Thanks for the tip. Saved us a bunch of time, money and hassle.

    • Awesome, thanks for taking the time to share that with me because it makes me so happy to hear! Hope you enjoyed your time in Theth as much as I did!