Lake Titicaca Photo Diary



Lake Titicaca Photo Diary

We spent a weekend visiting the Peruvian Islands in Lake Titicaca, and as usual in Peru, the photos were too good not to share. During our two days on the lake, the landscape changed dramatically from a cloudy and gray climate over Puno’s city to a green and sunny escape on the the Amantani and Taquile islands. See it all in our Lake Titicaca photo diary and explore more of the landscapes, people, and culture we found on the high altitude lake!





















by Sep 22, 2017

The Top 3 Peruvian Islands in Lake Titicaca



The Top 3 Peruvian Islands in Lake Titicaca


Lake Titicaca is a popular tourist destination because it’s the highest navigable lake on earth, and the Peruvian islands in Lake Titicaca are a popular tourist destination. Like hiking Colca Canyon, visiting the Peruvian islands in Lake Titicaca is an iconic and essential stop while vacationing in Arequipa. While there are plenty of likes that sit at higher elevations, Lake Titicaca is the highest that people live on and that boats can navigate. So, how high is Lake Titicaca? It sits at 12,500 ft. The lake also straddles the border between Peru and Bolivia, which means that half the coast line and islands are on Bolivian soil, and the other half are in Peru.

Because Bolivia requires a $140 visa entrance fee for Americans, unfortunately this time around Daniel and I only chose to see the Peruvian islands in Lake Titicaca. We only had a weekend, and there was plenty to do just in Peru to fill that time. If you choose to see the Bolivian side also, definitely budget four or five days to see it all.


How To Get There

To visit the top 3 Peruvian islands at Lake Titicaca, you will need to start off in Puno. Puno is a small city on the edge of the lake, and the jumping off point for most of the tours to the islands. The best time to visit Puno is when traveling between Arequipa and Cusco. If you take a bus from one destination to the other, it will stop in Puno which lies between them, and is about a 6 hours bus ride from each city. So, when planning your trip to Peru, make sure you add in a few days between your visits to Arequipa and Cusco to stop in Puno to see Lake Titicaca.

Puno actually doesn’t have much to see, so it’s best to get in at night, and start your tours of the lake the next day. When you get to Puno, there will be tons of different tour options for you to choose from. Lake Titicaca is huge, at over 3,000 square miles, and has a depth of almost 9,000 feet! There are plenty of islands on the lake, and there is a LOT to see and do in the area. So what should you plan to visit?


The Top 3 Peruvian Islands in Lake Titicaca.


1. Amantani Island

Amantani Island just started to become a part of the tourist circuit five or six years ago. The island is small, at only about three and a half square miles. It has about 800 families on it divided into 10 small communities. Amantani Island is a three hour boat ride from Puno.

Why you should visit: The unique thing about Amantani island, and my favorite part of the visit, was the homestay we were given. We ate lunch, dinner, and breakfast with a local family and were invited into their houses to sleep. Flora, our “mother”, was extremely kind and her house was very comfortable. It even included a large balcony with a stunning view of the lake. That night, we were all invited to a local fiesta where we were given traditional outfits to wear. Musicians from across the island came to play and they taught us the traditional dances of the community. It was a really fun experience.

What to do: While on Amantani, don’t miss the climb up to the highest point on the island. there are two small mountains that each have a temple on top of them, the temple of the moon and the temple of the sun. We climbed to the Pachatata temple. The climb is fairly easy. It’s on a paved path and though it goes up for 45 minutes, it’s not very steep. There are also vendors selling souvenirs, snacks, and even cold beers along the climb if you need a break. Once you get to the top of the mountain, the 360 degree view is stunning. You can see the sparkling blue water, surrounding islands, and even into Bolivia. While up there, just make sure you walk around the temple three times – once for health, once for money, and once for love – and then place a rock at the gate for good luck. My tip: climb up in the afternoon to enjoy the sunset over the water!




2. Taquile Island

Taquile island is another popular destination on the lake. Like Amantani Island, Taquile island is also a three hour boat ride from Puno, and about a one hour ride from Amantani. However, Taquile island is about double the size of Amantani in both square milage and population.

Why you should visit: The most unique thing about Taquile island is the community of knitting men. These men do exactly what it sounds like… they knit. Their products are beautiful, thick, and high quality, and they are all made by hand. There is a large market in the central plaza de armas where you can buy scarves, headbands, gloves, and traditional belts and hats from them. They’re expensive (some of the hats take up to two months to knit!) but unique and make great souvenirs and gifts.

What to do: We docked on one side of the island and walked an hour to the main square. The walk was high up along the coast line, and had amazing views the whole way. In the square, we visited the marketplace. Afterwards, we enjoyed a lunch of baked fish and potatoes with a view of the island farmland and blue sparking water. Finally, we walked back down tot he other side of the island to a second port to meet our boat again. If you visit Taquile, make sure you walk across the entire island to enjoy the many different beautiful views of the lake!





3. Uros Floating Islands

The Uros floating islands are the easiest island to visit from Puno, because they are only a 20 minute boat ride away. These islands are manmade by the Uros community thta lives on them. Mud, roots, and reed plants make up the base of the island, which float precariously on top of Lake Titicaca’s calm waters. The Uros community has built more than 85 inhabited islands.

Why you should visit: The Uros Floating Islands are incredibly unique because they’re just that: man-made, floating islands. When you visit the islands, you will meet community members who will show you how they build the islands and anchor them down. The islands, their homes, and all the crafts they sell are all made out of the reeds that grow in Lake Titicaca. They’re edible too, so you can even try a bite!

What to do: While on the islands, you can take a $3 ride in their traditional boats (that they used to live on before they began building more permanent islands). Check out their unique hanging mobiles and handicrafts, and visit the Uros Capital Island, which has hostels, restaurants, markets, and even a hospital and school built on it.




Amantani Island, Taquile Island, and the Uros Floating Islands are the the top 3 Peruvian islands in Lake Titicaca. Buy a $30 tour, and spend two days and one night visiting all of these unique sites on the highest navigable lake in the world!

All my love,



by Sep 18, 2017

Hiking Colca Canyon: The World’s Second Deepest Canyon



Hiking Colca Canyon: The World’s Second Deepest Canyon

Hiking Colca Canyon is the most popular tour from Arequipa, Peru, and the reason why many tourists come to this city. It’s the world’s second deepest canyon, reaching 11,400 ft deep at its greatest depth. (The deepest canyon is in Tibet, and the Grand Canyon ranks 4th). Daniel and I of course decided to check it out! Here is my review of the two day, one night trek hiking Colca Canyon.

The Stats

Cost: $30 per person, plus another $21 pp for the tourist ticket for entrance into the canyon. These costs include transportation, breakfast, lunch, and dinner on the first day, breakfast on the second day, a place to sleep, and a guide. Extra costs include buying water on the trek, a tip for the guide, and lunch on the last day. The tour is easy to book in any tour agency in the city center.

Time: We were picked up at 3 am in Arequipa on the first day, and returned to the city at 5pm on day two.

Distance: The first day hiking Colca Canyon we walked 13.5 miles, and the second we walked 9 miles. That meant about seven hours of walking on day one and four hours on day two.

Altitude: The trek started at 10,700 ft. From there, we descended into the canyon down to the oasis at 7,300 ft. Just remember, the next day you will have to climb right back out of it!


Day One: Descent Into the Oasis

Day one of hiking Colca Canyon started at 3am, just like most tours in Peru. The van picked us up and then made its rounds to the hostels slowly filling up with fellow travelers. Once we were done, we started the drive out to Chivay, the gateway into Colca Canyon. On the way, we passed the highest altitude we would reach on the trip at 15,700 ft. Three hours later, we stopped in Chivay for a quick breakfast, and then continued another hour to our first stop at 8:30am – the Cruz del Condor.

Cruz del Condor

The Cruz del Condor is a popular lookout in Colca Canyon. The high point offers stunning views of the depth of the gorge, and is a perfect place to spot the giant condors who live there. Condors are a species of vulture, and they’re HUGE. They’re the largest flying birds in the western hemisphere, and you’re all but guaranteed to spot a couple at the canyon lookout. Watching the giant birds glide over the depths of the canyon was a stunning experience, and definitely a must for any birders.


Start of the Trek

Next, we drove another hour to the starting point of the trek outside the town of Cabanaconde. Here, we were split into new groups of about ten each and were introduced to our tour guides. We walked to the edge of the Colca Canyon and began the 2.5 hour descent to the bottom.



The descent was hot and sunny, but the views were beautiful. Once we reached the bottom, we had a rest next to the rushing Colca river, and then it was another 30 minutes of up and down hiking until our lunch. Lunch was in a cute restaurant with plenty of green space, flowers, and beautiful views, and was a perfect midday rest. Afterwards, we walked another 2 hours up and down the side of the canyon until we finally descended into the oasis.


Sangalle Oasis

The Sangalle Oasis has to be seen to be believed. The small circle of greenery is like a lush Garden of Eden. Flowers bloomed in every color and multiple pools sparkled in the sun while waterfalls rushed into them. It was like another world, a true oasis tucked away between the high stone walls of Colca Canyon.



Unfortunately, we arrived around 5pm, so we couldn’t take advantage of the pools in the hot sun. We had a few hours to relax, and then it was dinner, a beer or two, and bed time by 8pm. Before we passed out in the basic (but comfortable) bed, Daniel and I took a minute to stargaze. The night sky was absolutely stunning. I’ve been to 25 countries in my life, but I’ve never, ever been somewhere with stars like this. Millions dotted the night sky, and the milky way glowed brightly through the middle of it, outshining them all. Just seeing the stars was actually my favorite part of the trip!


Day Two: The Climb and Return to Arequipa

Day two of our trek began at 4am. We met the rest of the group at 4:30 and started the uphill hike back out the Canyon. We returned by a different and shorter route than we came in, and it took about 3 hours to climb it. We began in the dark. The temperatures were cool, and the headlights of the groups ahead of us bobbed in the night like shining stars. Soon, the sun began to rise and the canyon lit up. The hike was timed perfectly, and we reached the top just as the heat of the sun began to reach us.

The climb itself wasn’t too strenuous, and despite being only uphill, the switchbacks were nice and wide, and the temps were nice. The hike was really pleasant. Hiking Colca Canyon was just difficult enough to feel like an achievement, but easy enough that we weren’t completely wiped out by the time we reached the top (unlike our harrowing experience on Misti Volcano!) Once we completed the climb, it was another 20 minutes back to Cabanaconde, where a hot breakfast of bread, eggs, and some much needed coffee awaited us. At 9am, we began the long drive home, with a few stops in between of course.

Stop 1: Pre-Incan Terraces

The first stop was to take photos at a part of Colca valley filled with pre-Incan terraces. The view was stunning, and there was even a small bar selling pisco sours for those really trying to relax after the climb!


Stop 2: Hot Springs

The next stop was at the optional hot springs. The springs run into pools along the Colca River, and for a $5 entrance fee you can use the changing rooms and take a dip in pools of all temperatures. We stopped at the springs for about an hour to soak after the long hike.

Stop 3: Chivay

The third stop on the way home from hiking Colca Canyon is again in the town of Chivay. Here there is the non-included lunch buffet for $10. However, there are other restaurants to eat at around the town, but Daniel and I can’t recommend any because we chose to pack a lunch instead. Chivay is also where a lot of travelers split from the group, and continue on to Puno to see Lake Titicaca rather than backtrack to Arequipa. Combining your Colca Canyon tour with Lake Titicaca is efficient and cost effective if you’re planning to visit them both.

Stop 4: Volcanos Views

Our final stops were just quick 10 minute stops to take photos. The first was at a volcano lookout. We could see different volcanoes in every direction, including the erupting Sabancaya Volcano. It looked like a martian landscape surrounded us, with gray ash and dust, the smoking volcano, and piles of stacked rocks in every direction. Spooky.



Stop 5: Salinas and Aguada Blanca National Reserve

For our last stop, we pulled over when we passed through the Salinas and Aguada Blanca National Reserve. Pools of water and herds of alpacas and llamas dominated the landscape. We were even lucky enough to spot some flamingos and wild vincunya on the drive through as well. It was beautiful!



Finally, we completed the drive back to Arequipa. We got back to the city at 5pm, ready for dinner and a lazy night watching TV in our apartment. Hiking Colca Canyon is an easy weekend trip, and we had a great time. The unique oasis, condor spottings, and trek into the second deepest canyon in the world make it a must visit for any tourist in Arequipa, and one that I definitely recommend!

All my love,





by Sep 11, 2017

Brazil Travel Guide: Florianopolis Island



Brazil Travel Guide: Florianopolis Island


I’m not going to lie; I had zero expectations before I went to Brazil. I had only been to Medellin, Colombia in South America for a few days, so I really had no idea what I was getting myself into. However, I received a fellowship to learn Portuguese for seven weeks on the island of Santa Catarina in Southern Brazil, and I wasn’t going to turn it down. The stress of grad school was wearing on me, and I figured I would spend a few weeks bumbling through a language I had no background in with a bunch of undergrads hell bent on partying (and annoying cantankerous old me) every night. I was resigned to my fate.

However, my expectations could not have been more wrong; Florianopolis Island was one of the most magical places I have ever traveled too, and I ended up having one of the most memorable summers of my life.



Listen: I know when you think of Brazil you probably think of Rio de Janeiro and its parties, beaches, and gorgeous people. Instead, you need to start thinking about Florianopolis.

This island really has it all… over 40 beaches, mountains to climb, lakes perfect for water sports, hiking trails with gorgeous views, spectacular sand dunes, a wild night life and some of the most chill folks you’ll ever have the pleasure of meeting. Bonus: it’s the safest capital of any state in Brazil!



Where to Stay

I lived in Santa Catarina’s most beautiful region (maybe I’m biased…) near Joaquina Beach. Over my seven weeks here, I was able to see much of Florianopolis Island, so I have a lot to recommend. Though of course I would encourage you to stay as long as possible, if you have just a week you can still get in much of the flavor of Floripa (Are you confused about names yet? Though the island itself is called Santa Catarina, the city and the region are called Florianopolis, or Floripa if you want to be cute).  

The best place to stay on Florianopolis Island is near the lakes/lagoon in the middle of the island. The neighborhoods near Lagoa da Conceição are where all the hippies, hipsters, and otherwise strange and fun folk live and hang out. Here you also have easy access to what I’d argue are the best beaches on the island: Joaquina and Praia Mole. 


What to Do

Near Joaquina beach, you can hike on the peaceful sand dunes that roll into a bird-filled scrub land good for long walks (keep your eyes peeled for the enigmatic burrowing owls). One of my absolute favorite things to do on Florianopolis Island was sitting on the dunes at night during a new moon when the stars were positively breath taking.

Outside of downtown, other must sees on Florianopolis Island include hiking around the lake and to the waterfall at Lagoa do Peri Park, getting dinner in the quaint village of Santo Antonio de Lisboa, catching a rowdy Avaí FC football match, and tackling the arduous but oh-so-worth-it Lagoinha do Leste trail for the secluded beach that is only accessible by foot or boat.



What to Eat & Drink

My friends and I really enjoyed hanging out at Books and Beers (a place for good craft brew), The Black Swan (an ex-pat haven) and of course the infamous ice cream buffet at Buffet Sorvete Doce Pecado.

I also recommend a visit to the downtown “Centro” area on Florianopolis Island, which is a fun place to shop, eat, or watch the sunset. My classes were here so I was able to scope out all the best places for lunch (Calzone Mania), coffee (Ponto do Pao and The Baker Seville), and my absolute favorite treat, acai bowls from Amazon Acai.

Obviously, when in Brazil the drink of choice is the refreshing and terrifically potent caipirinha made with sugar cane rum (Cachaça), lime, and a terrifying amount of sugar. The best place to get one on the island? Colher de Pau in the Public Market makes them strong.



Essentially, my seven weeks on Florianopolis Island went by way too fast. I made friends (yes, even with those undergrads), learned a surprising amount of Portuguese (Eu sou o mais legal!), pet a dangerous amount of street dogs, and fell in love with Brazil. Next time I return, I’ll have the high expectations that Florianopolis Island, and everything it has to offer, deserves.


by Sep 6, 2017

Surviving Misti Volcano: A Photo Diary


Surviving Misti Volcano: A Photo Diary

The two day trek to the summit of Misti Volcano in Arequipa, Peru is anything but easy. We climbed over boulders on our hands and knees, teetered on the edges of thousand foot drops, and scaled snow and ice covered rock walls… all after a 1am wake up call in thin air at high altitude. It was the toughest hike I’ve ever done, but also the most rewarding, and the views were stunning from start to finish. An epic climb deserves epic photos…




















by Sep 6, 2017

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