Daniel and I decided to solo hike Santa Cruz when we came to Huaraz, Peru, and it was the best decision we ever made. The trail was super easy to get to and follow, and there were other people and groups around the whole time in case anything went wrong. If you’re thinking about ditching the tour groups and going out on your own (which you should!) this guide has everything you need to know from transportation, packing lists, costs and more. Check it out and leave a comment below if you have any more questions!
Max Altitude: The highest elevation on the trek is 4,750m/ 15,583 ft
Total Time: Four days. We left our apartment in Huaraz at 5am on Thursday and arrived back at 4pm on Sunday.
Difficulty: Moderate. Crossing the pass on the second day can be tough due to the high altitude.
Total Cost: We spent about 845 soles/ $260 usd for all gear, food, and transportation
Ok, I’m going to break down our packing lists into four categories: clothes, gear, food, and miscellaneous. I think these lists are pretty spot on, because while on the trek there was nothing in my bag that I didn’t use, and there was also nothing that I wished I had and forgot.
Leggings x 2
T-shirt x 2
Hiking socks x2
Sports bra x2
Waterproof hiking pants
Hiking poles x2
Large backpack x2
Bowl x2 (we mostly just ate out of the pot and found these unnecessary)
Tent + Raincover
Sleeping bag x2
Sleeping mat x2
Waterproof backpack cover x2
Three Breakfasts: pre-made large cinnamon and peanut butter pancakes (one per day)
Four Lunches: pre-made bacon and cheese quesadillas for two days, and pre-made peanut butter and jelly quesadillas for two days (these turned out to be gross and I mostly just fed them to the stray dogs)
Four Snacks: I packed one snack bag per day with a meat stick, a cereal bar, peanuts, craisins, dried apricots, gummy worms, chocolate covered peanuts, and mentos. Unwrap and mix everything together before you leave to reduce the trash you’ll have to carry on the trek.
Three dinners: Hotdogs on day one, soup packet with ramen noodles added on day two, and plain ramen on day three
Instant coffee every morning and tea every evening
Extra charging block and cord
Water bottles x2
Iodine to clean our water
Ibuprofen and Tums
Cash for park entrance and transportation
Deck of cards
If you have your own gear you will save a lot of money, because that was by far our biggest cost. Not only did we need to rent all of our gear to solo hike Santa Cruz, we also had to rent the waterproof and warm clothes. The only thing we had going in was our large Osprey backpacks (which I love and completely recommend) and our hiking boots. Keep in mind that the following costs are for two people. The total cost for our gear rental from Peruvian Classic Adventures was 512 soles/ $157 usd.
There aren’t large supermarkets in Huaraz, so food is kind of expensive because it has to be bought at smaller stores. All of our food cost around 200 soles/ $61 usd. We also had to buy hand sanitizer, sunscreen, iodine and other miscellaneous items from the pharmacies that added up to another 55 soles/ $17 usd.
Finally, our transport cost was 77 soles/ $24 usd total for two people. If you haven’t already bought a three week pass into the park on a previous trip, that will be another 65 soles/ $20 usd per person.
Ok so you want to solo hike Santa Cruz, but how do you get from Huaraz to the start of the trek?
First, you need to take a collectiv0 from Huaraz to Yungay. You can get this on the corner of Avenida Raymondi and Cajamarca. The trip is about and hour and a half and costs 5 soles each. The collectivo will drop you off at a small station in Yungay where you can get the next one. Ask around, or more accurately, wait for a driver to accost you as soon as he sees a gringo with a hiking pack. Get on a collectivo to Vaqueria. This is about a three hour drive and costs 15 to 20 soles each. The driver will drop you off right at the start of the trail. Easy!
To get back to Huaraz after you finish the trek, you can get a collectivo right at the end of the trail where it meets the road and a small town. This collectivo will take you to Caraz, where you will then get another one to Huaraz.
Just a word of warning, make sure you get a collectivo heading left from the trail end, not to the right. We got on one saying he was heading to Caraz, but instead he proceeded to make deliveries, drop offs, and pick ups for an HOUR AND A HALF before returning to the trailhead to begin the drive to Caraz. That was… frustrating to say the least. The drive from the trail end to Caraz should be 10 soles and one hour long. In Caraz, you will be dropped at another small station where you can get a collectivo back to Huaraz. This is 6 soles each and will be another hour and a half drive back to town.
Which Way Should You Solo Hike Santa Cruz?
The Santa Cruz trek can be hiked in two directions. The most popular choice (which we did) is to go from Vaqueria to Cashapampa. However, many people also choose to hike it “backwards” from Cashapampa to Vaqueria. Both have their pros and cons.
The trek from Vaqueria to Cashapampa is easier. Day one is flat, day two is uphill through the pass, and day three and four are flat or downhill. You can also do the extra side hike to the mountain mirador and lake in the morning instead of the afternoon after a day of hiking. Finally, you’ll have a shorter drive home after the trek from Cashapampa instead of the 5 hour trip from Vaqueria. However…
The trek from Cashapampa to Vaqueria is more beautiful. You walk towards the mountains rather than away from them, and have some of the most beautiful views on the last day rather than the first. This direction is definitely more difficult though. Day one is pretty much uphill the whole time, day two is flat and uphilll, day three is uphill through the pass, and day four is flat.
Personally, I’m glad we chose the easier route, especially because it was my first backpacking trip carrying all my gear, but I know other people who have done it backwards and really enjoyed it too.
Temperature and Weather
Just because it’s warm in Huaraz, doesn’t mean it will be the same on the Santa Cruz trek. Temps are colder at high altitude and weather can change at the drop of a hat in the mountain ranges, so you need to be prepared.
We went in mid-October. Remember, Peru is in the Southern Hemisphere so here this is the start of spring and the rainy season. We had pretty warm temperatures in the days and I mostly hiked in leggings and a sweatshirt. At night, it got colder and an extra pair of pants and a down coat was necessary. Unfortunately because we went in October, the first two days of our trek were super cloudy and most of the peaks and best views were obscured.
If you go in the high season in June, July, and August, it’s winter in Peru and the coldest months of the year. Temperatures will definitely be lower and nights will be cold, but you will also be rewarded with clear skies, dry weather, and sunshine every day.
Our Experience Solo Hiking Santa Cruz
If you decide to solo hike Santa Cruz, you definitely won’t be the only ones taking on the challenge. We went in mid-October, which is the start of the off season, but there were still plenty of other people on the trail with us. There were two large tour groups of about 15 people each, and another ten or so people solo hiking Santa Cruz. I was so glad we were one of them.
I read a lot of reviews of various agencies about the trek, and they were so hit or miss. I really didn’t want to end up ruining the trip I was so looking forward to because the food was terrible and I was starving the whole time, or the equipment was dirty or left us freezing all night.
It is possible to sign up for a Santa Cruz trek with an agency here for as little as 300 soles/ $90 usd per person. However, I’d rather spend a little extra money and know that my gear is high-quality, my food is good, and my water is clean. Plus, there was no one telling us what to do and we could just plop down for a rest or set up camp whenever and wherever we wanted. It was amazing.
Day One – A Flat Start – 5 Hours Hiking
On day one we left our apartment in Huaraz at 5am and arrived at the trailhead in Vaqueria at 10am. The first 15 minutes of the trek were kind of confusing. I’m going to detail the right directions here as best as I can remember, but make sure you also keep asking locals which way to go.
You will start by heading down a hillside. When the trail reaches a road, walk on the road for a bit. There will be a small grass trail to the left, but it’s not right (this is the one we ended up taking on accident.) Keep walking until you see a larger and more obvious trail on the left and continue on it downhill. Once you reach the river, cross it and turn right. Follow the trail into a small town. Here you’ll reach a fork at a small shop and you need to continue on the left fork (even though the one on the right looks bigger and better.) Walk along the trail for another 5 to 10 minutes. You’ll go downhill then back up again with houses on either side.
This is the most important part: The main road you are walking on will continue straight, but you need to take the smaller dirt trail that goes up and to the left. We totally missed this and luckily a woman at her house saw us and yelled at us to turn around and go the right way.
Once you’re on the right trail here, it’s easy going for the rest of the trek. You’ll walk for about an hour until you finally reach the entrance to Huascaran National Park. Here you need to sign in and buy a ticket for 65 soles/ $20 usd if you haven’t already.
Whew, ok. After that it’s a really nice and beautiful flat hike to the campsite. We walked mostly along the river and went through beautiful green valleys and fields. It was also here that we picked up the first of the stray dog pack that hiked all the way through the trek with us. Adopting a trail dog is an integral part of the Santa Cruz solo hiking experience. These pups lead the way, ate our leftovers, and protected our tent from any donkeys or cows that strayed too close.
After about 5 hours of flat hiking, we arrived at the campsite. All of the campsites on the Santa Cruz trek are marked with signs and very obvious. From the campsite the weather cleared for sunset and we got stunning views of mountains in all directions. We set up, cooked dinner, and went to bed around 8pm.
Day Two – Through the Pass – 8 Hours Hiking
The second day is the hardest day of the trek. We began with a beautiful flat walk for two hours. The walk then started to go uphill for the next two hours, but it was nothing to strenuous. Finally, we came to an imposing rock face. Yep, this is the dreaded pass that every hiker on Santa Cruz knows about. The uphill got much steeper, and we climbed for two more hours (with a lot of rests) to reach the top. It started to snow, but the views were still amazing. Finally, we came over the pass. Wow.
I promise you will be rewarded for making the climb! To the right and left were giant white capped peaks, and below us a lush green valley spread out. Most stunning of all, though, was the lake that was so turquoise blue it rivaled Laguna 69. We ate our lunch in the pass and walked another two hours downhill to the camp. The camp is down in the valley, and we woke up with clear skies and stunning mountain views in all directions. Seriously amazing.
Day Three – Mountain Mirador – 6 hours hiking
I don’t know if it was the clear skies we woke up to or the fact that the hardest part of the trek was over, but day three was one of my favorites of our Santa Cruz solo hike. It takes about four hours to get from this camp site to the next, but there is a side hike to a mountain lookout and lake that adds another two to three hours to the day.
We left camp at 6:45am and climbed an hour up to the mirador. This trail starts about 20 minutes from the camp and was super easy to find and follow. When we got to the top, the view of three mountains was absolutely stunning in the morning light. One of the peaks was voted “the most beautiful in the world” in the 60’s and is used as the Paramount logo, so you can picture how awesome the view really was. Waterfalls ran by us and green grass and trees stretched out as far as we could see. It was definitely worth the extra uphill battle.
There is also a lake here if you want to keep walking another 30 minutes more to it, but Daniel and I opted out and decided to turn around and continue on the trek instead, so I can’t tell you if it’s worth the walk. After we got back to the valley, we walked through a strange sandy wasteland, then by a beautiful blue lake. Finally, we reached the third campsite around 1pm. Luckily we had a beautiful day, so we spent the afternoon playing cards, sitting by the river, and enjoying the fresh air and sunshine.
If you’re short on time and need to cut the Santa Cruz trek from four days to three, you could skip the side hike to the mountain lookout, and continue the last four hours from camp to Cashapampa.
Day Four – The Finish – 4 hours hiking
The last day of the trek! When you solo hike Santa Cruz, this is both a blessing because you know you can finally get rid of your heavy pack, and a curse, because it means heading back to reality.
The first two hours of day four are flat and beautiful, winding along the riverside. Eventually, though, we found ourselves heading downhill. This was another two hours. Finally, we reached Cashapampa at 11am. At the end of the trek is a small town where you can buy lunch and a few celebratory beers while you wait for the next collectivo to pass by, which it seems like they do every hour or so. Due to our small snafu, we ended up getting back Huaraz, dropping off our gear, and finally returning to our apartment around 4pm. A shower and a hot meal never felt so good 🙂
So, there you have it! If you are planning to solo hike Santa Cruz in Peru, this is absolutely everything you need to do to complete the hike on your own. I felt really accomplished arriving at the end with my pack, knowing I had been completely self sufficient for four days. I also loved the total lack of small talk that we usually have to make in the tour groups.
It was a beautiful experience solo hiking Santa Cruz with Daniel and being out in nature together, completely cut off from the Internet, media and the rest of the world. When you come to Huaraz, I really recommend considering a solo trek for Santa Cruz! It was one of the most peaceful and beautiful trips of my life, and I would do it again in a heartbeat.
Enjoy, and if you have any questions, please feel free to ask them below!
All my love,